Upgrading old computers

[Robin Bignall]

I want to clarify.

The necessary changes might include replacing architecture by data
width, or even (oh, this is so hard to admit!) bitness.

You implicitly pointed out that without the qualifier (e.g., 64-bit),
architecture covers too much ground. It could mean RISC or a lot of
other things, so when it's unqualified, it's too vague.

Now that I've lost most of my arguments, I'm going to go kick the dog.

Not to worry: I don't have a dog, or even access to one.

You can hire mine. $100 a kick (gotta supplement the pension somehow).

 

[Antares 531]

I agree about the NETGEAR software.

Actually, it surprises me that the 64-bit version would install.

I installed the 64 bit version on the new desktop computer that has a
64 bit motherboard setup. But this may be the reason the old computer
with a 32 bit motherboard setup can not communicate with the NETGEAR
software on the new computer.

The old computer shows a Wi-Fi icon indicating a strong signal and
ready to connect but when I click on this icon and get the pop-up that
asks for SSID and password then fill these in and hit the enter key it
just stalls out until it times out and quits without completing the
connection.

 

[Antares 531]

The web browser is used to set up the *router*. The computers are set up
in the Windows Control Panel, in various network settings panels.

To get to the router, enter something like http://192.168.1.1 in the
browser's address bar. 192.168.1.1 is an example; your router's address
may differ a bit from that.

Okay, I tried this but since this old computer won't connect with the
household network or with the Internet I can't get beyond its own hard
drive information.

I'm thinking I need to delete the old software that was earlier used
for the old router that got knocked out by lightning. Maybe this old
software is still trying to do something that isn't congruent with the
new setup process.

 

[Ken Blake]

I still think you should stop apologizing for your word - especially now
that Ed has shown you (and me!) the light.

Apologizing? I haven't thought of it as apologizing; more describing
what to me what I thought was a word I made up (but I was apparently
wrong).

BTW, in general, I don't like using nonstandard terminology,
*especially* for beginners, since then there's a real risk that they
won't understand the accepted terminology when they run across it from
another source.

I agree entirely with that. But when it come to a word like "bitness,"
I had thought it would be understood, even though it was nonstandard.

 

[Ken Blake]

I want to clarify.

The necessary changes might include replacing architecture by data
width, or even (oh, this is so hard to admit!) bitness.

You implicitly pointed out that without the qualifier (e.g., 64-bit),
architecture covers too much ground. It could mean RISC or a lot of
other things, so when it's unqualified, it's too vague.

Now that I've lost most of my arguments, I'm going to go kick the dog.

Not to worry: I don't have a dog, or even access to one.

LOL!

Even though I disagree with most of what you said, I actually agree
with some of it.

 

[Paul]

Does the thing have a model number ?

Netgear seem to use the N300 designation for a lot of products, so
it is not a unique term. See if the cardboard box has an actual model number
on it. The model number could be DGxxxx kind of thing.

I'm hoping the downloadable manual has some hints. Like a setting for
legacy Wifi or something.

Paul

 

[Char Jackson]

Okay, I tried this but since this old computer won't connect with the
household network or with the Internet I can't get beyond its own hard
drive information.

If you're trying to configure the router, you have to do it from a
computer with a working Ethernet connection, preferably wired. It's
generally not a good idea to muck around with the router when using a
wireless connection.

I'm thinking I need to delete the old software that was earlier used
for the old router that got knocked out by lightning. Maybe this old
software is still trying to do something that isn't congruent with the
new setup process.

I think you mentioned earlier that you only have a Link light at one
end of the Ethernet cable that connects the old non-working computer
to the router. That's a physical problem that needs to be dealt with
before you can go any further.

Once you get that repaired, (you'll likely end up replacing the NIC),
then you'll need to check your network configuration on that PC. If
it's set to use DHCP, everything should fall into place. If you've
hardcoded the IP address, gateway address, or netmask, for example,
then you'll have problems if the new router has different defaults
than the old router. Moral: use DHCP.

 

[Anthony Buckland]

We have two old desktop computers in our household network that are on
the verge of obsolescence, but I would like to upgrade them. Both are
still running Windows XP but I'm not sure the CPUs and the motherboard
in general is capable of handling a later version...say Windows 7, 64
bit.

How can I determine the upgrade limitations for these old computers
before I buy any new hard disks or software for them?

If these computers are upgradable, can I install a new hard drive then
format it for 64 bits, then install Windows 7, then use the old files
that are now stored on a second hard drive that is formatted for 32
bit data?

With the prices these days, and capabilities,
buy new replacement machines. Just save your
data. Anything else is just a waste of your
time, and would at best stave off the inevitable.

 

[Anthony Buckland]

The *official* minimum. But for practical purposes, everyone needs at
least 2GB of RAM for adequate performance.

If you buy even moderately priced new machines, several
GHz and a bunch of GB is standard. As is at least one
TBy of hard drive.

 

[Zaidy036]

<snip>

Look at the routers settings for connection limitations set by MAC addresses

 

[Char Jackson]

I tried changing the Ethernet cable but got no results. In fact when I
switch these Ethernet cables between the two cable connected computers
the one that balks still balks and the one that works still
works...with either cable.

Sounds like a blown Ethernet port, like you'd typically see after a
nearby lightning strike. If your computer has two Ethernet ports,
maybe the other one still works. If it only has that one, it looks
like you might be in the market for a replacement NIC. Luckily,
they're cheap. Check your motherboard to see if you have an open slot,
note what type of slot it is, and get a NIC that fits. Pretty simple.

This sounds worth a try. I'll see if I can figure out how to do it and
hope for the best.

Figure out how to do it?? Go to one of your computers that has a
working Ethernet connection, fire up your favorite web browser, and
navigate to your router's IP address. Log in, click on the wireless
settings section, click on security, set it to none, click OK. Done.

 

[Char Jackson]

I installed the 64 bit version on the new desktop computer that has a
64 bit motherboard setup. But this may be the reason the old computer
with a 32 bit motherboard setup can not communicate with the NETGEAR
software on the new computer.

Router setup software is both completely optional and completely
irrelevant to the problems you're having.

The old computer shows a Wi-Fi icon indicating a strong signal and
ready to connect but when I click on this icon and get the pop-up that
asks for SSID and password then fill these in and hit the enter key it
just stalls out until it times out and quits without completing the
connection.

I'm guessing you chose an encryption method on your new router that
the old wireless computer doesn't support. It can see the SSID, but it
can't negotiate a connection. Like I said in another post, verify
that's the case by temporarily disabling the router's wireless
encryption. It's a simple test that should take less than 2 minutes if
you go slowly.

Don't forget to enable your wireless security after the test, but be
sure to use an encryption method that all of your wireless devices
support. That may very well mean NOT automatically choosing the most
secure settings.

 

[Char Jackson]

<snip>

Look at the routers settings for connection limitations set by MAC addresses

....and disable that feature if it's enabled. It's worthless, just like
not broadcasting the SSID.

 

[Wolf K]

This has caught my attention! Please tell me how I can use my web
browser to set up the older computers such that they will make the
connection with the router.

OK, I think I begin to see your problem a little clearer now: a) your
model/theory of how a computer connects to a router is wrong; b) it's a
hardware problem.

First, some explanation, which I hope is clear enough.
Essentially, your theory has it backwards. You use the browser to set up
the router, not the computers. Once the router is set up, any (and I do
mean _any_) machine with the requisite hardware can connect to it
(Ethernet cable or wi-fi). That's why you need a password/key, otherwise
any machine within range can connect to your wi-fi router and through it
to your internet connection.

If the router is protected with a password/key, then the router will
pass the connection through to whatever is on the other side (in your
case, the modem and the other computers) if and only if the machine
provides the password when requested. When you connect the first time,
the network wizard will ask you for the password/key. You type (or copy
+ paste) it into the appropriate box, and that's that. After that, it's
all automatic.

OK, the router works, your Win7 machines connect just fine, but the
older machines don't. I see two possibilities. One, the older machines
are offering an incorrect (old) password. You could try running the
Network wizard in the Control Panel again. If it shows a password being
used, delete it and enter the new one.

Two, their network hardware is fried (you did mention lightning, didn't
you?) I think it's the hardware. I think you need a new Ethernet card,
aka as a NIC (Network Interface Card), and/or a wi-fi card or USB wi-fi
dongle for each machine.

NICs cost about $10 and up. Wi-fi cards are around $15 and up. Wi-fi
dongles cost around $25 and up, depending on capability. The NIC should
be plug'n'play: just pull out the old one, insert the new one, and
reboot. The wi-fi card or dongle will likely require a driver; a CD
should come with it, or else let XP look for one.

PS: "Cat 5" is an Ethernet cable. "Cat X" refers to its specifications.
The fact that your machine won't connect to the router with an Ethernet
cable is the reason I think that the NIC in that machine is toast.

 

[Wolf K]

I installed the 64 bit version on the new desktop computer that has a
64 bit motherboard setup. But this may be the reason the old computer
with a 32 bit motherboard setup can not communicate with the NETGEAR
software on the new computer.

No that has nothing to do with it.

The old computer shows a Wi-Fi icon indicating a strong signal and
ready to connect but when I click on this icon and get the pop-up that
asks for SSID and password then fill these in and hit the enter key it
just stalls out until it times out and quits without completing the
connection

Try Network applet in the Control Panel instead. Also make sure that the
machine shows the correct network name.

 

[Gene Wirchenko]

On Sun, 24 Jun 2012 16:11:52 -0700, "Gene E. Bloch"

[snip]

To get to the router, enter something like http://192.168.1.1 in the
browser's address bar. 192.168.1.1 is an example; your router's address
may differ a bit from that.

192.168.0.1 is another common one.

Sincerely,

Gene Wirchenko

 

[Antares 531]

If you're trying to configure the router, you have to do it from a
computer with a working Ethernet connection, preferably wired. It's
generally not a good idea to muck around with the router when using a
wireless connection.

I have the router set up with a Cat 5 connection to my new desktop
computer and all is well, here. The only two problems are that the two
old desktop computers won't connect to the router. One of the old
desktop computers has a Cat 5 connection and the other has a Wi-Fi
setup, but neither will work.

I think you mentioned earlier that you only have a Link light at one
end of the Ethernet cable that connects the old non-working computer
to the router. That's a physical problem that needs to be dealt with
before you can go any further.

I'm not sure what you're talking about, here. I mentioned that the
router lights show amber for the old desktop computer that has a Cat
5 cable connection. The other old computer will show on its monitor,
the network as an available connection but it won't complete the
connection. It times out and quits.

Once you get that repaired, (you'll likely end up replacing the NIC),
then you'll need to check your network configuration on that PC. If
it's set to use DHCP, everything should fall into place. If you've
hardcoded the IP address, gateway address, or netmask, for example,
then you'll have problems if the new router has different defaults
than the old router. Moral: use DHCP.

I went to the local Best Buy store yesterday but they don't have the
NIC card that provides means for a Cat 5 cable hook-up. I'll try
another store, today and hope to find one.

 

[Antares 531]

On Sun, 24 Jun 2012 16:11:52 -0700, "Gene E. Bloch"

[snip]

To get to the router, enter something like http://192.168.1.1 in the
browser's address bar. 192.168.1.1 is an example; your router's address
may differ a bit from that.

192.168.0.1 is another common one.

Sincerely,

Gene Wirchenko

I can do this from my new desktop computer with no problems. This is
the computer that "manages" the router and has a Cat 5 cable
connection to it.

But, the old computers that are giving the problem with the connection
simply won't connect to the router or to any other link, since there
is no available Internet connection available to these computers.

Gordon

 

[Antares 531]

Does the thing have a model number ?

Netgear seem to use the N300 designation for a lot of products, so
it is not a unique term. See if the cardboard box has an actual model number
on it. The model number could be DGxxxx kind of thing.

I'm hoping the downloadable manual has some hints. Like a setting for
legacy Wifi or something.

Paul

The model number on the box is DGN3500.

I downloaded and printed the manual but have not been able to get any
positive results from anything it suggests.

 

[Antares 531]

Router setup software is both completely optional and completely
irrelevant to the problems you're having.


I'm guessing you chose an encryption method on your new router that
the old wireless computer doesn't support. It can see the SSID, but it
can't negotiate a connection. Like I said in another post, verify
that's the case by temporarily disabling the router's wireless
encryption. It's a simple test that should take less than 2 minutes if
you go slowly.

I tried this but it didn't seem to make any difference. That is, the
old computer still shows the available connection but shows it as not
secured. The old computer still wouldn't complete the connection.