Wi-Fi Router choice

[Antares 531]

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium on my desktop computer and have had
a household wi-fi router setup for some time. A few weeks ago our
power line took a lightning strike and the surge from this knocked my
wi-fi system out. I have tried two replacements but can not get the
connectivity I had with the old Netgear setup. My wife's kitchen
computer, running Windows XP, will not hold a connection more than a
few minutes. This computer is downstairs and around the corner of our
L shaped house.

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

 

[Paul]

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium on my desktop computer and have had
a household wi-fi router setup for some time. A few weeks ago our
power line took a lightning strike and the surge from this knocked my
wi-fi system out. I have tried two replacements but can not get the
connectivity I had with the old Netgear setup. My wife's kitchen
computer, running Windows XP, will not hold a connection more than a
few minutes. This computer is downstairs and around the corner of our
L shaped house.

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

Well, signal strength is a fun topic and all, but it not the
only element to making Wifi work.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11

802.11 b and g, are the older standards for Wifi. A higher
performance standard, is "n". But when buying "802.11n" devices,
some were "pre-standard" designs, others "post-standard". So some
were designed, before the standard was finalized.

If you mix b/g/n, they're designed to compromise their operation,
so they all work. The "n" will only use 20MHz channel spacing,
if other "b" and "g" things are detected. There's probably an
article about what happens, when they're all present and running
in the same space.

You should review the hardware bits and bobs you're trying to run
with the new router, to see if you haven't been making trouble
for yourself. From a standards point of view. If the kitchen
computer uses a "pre-standard" 802.11n, perhaps you could change out
the adapter.

To eliminate "range" as an issue, you can experiment with moving the
affected computer, either close to the router, or far from the router.
If the problem is not enough signal strength, then "close" will help.
If the problem is too much signal strength, then "far away" might help.
Most people assume "I need an antenna with lots of dBi on it, to
crush the router", and it isn't always a "more is better" situation.
You can have radio reflections and multipath, depending on the reflective
surfaces in the area.

I'd start by making a list of the make and model of all the
Wifi gear, then Googling to see if some are known stinkers.
Some single-chip USB Wifi adapters, have quite variable radio
sections, such that the signal strength unit to unit has quite
a bit of variation. (Some people report good results, some report
bad results, and it's the quality control on the chip that is the
issue.)

Paul

 

[s|b]

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

I'm happy with my Cisco/Linksys E2000. Not using the original firmware
though. I flashed and replaced it with DD-WRT. Not only because it's
supposed to be better, but because the WPS function has a security leak
for which Cisco hasn't posted a solution yet.

Linksys E2000:
<http://homestore.cisco.com/en-us/Ro...VproductId97826161VVcatId551966VVviewprod.htm>

WPS Vulnerability status update for Linksys devices:
<http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&articleid=25154>

DD-WRT for E2000:
<http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_E2000>

 

[Char Jackson]

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium on my desktop computer and have had
a household wi-fi router setup for some time. A few weeks ago our
power line took a lightning strike and the surge from this knocked my
wi-fi system out. I have tried two replacements but can not get the
connectivity I had with the old Netgear setup. My wife's kitchen
computer, running Windows XP, will not hold a connection more than a
few minutes. This computer is downstairs and around the corner of our
L shaped house.

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

Lots of good info, product reviews, and opinions here:
<http://www.practicallynetworked.com/>

Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to cover a whole house with a
single wireless router. Place it where it will do the most good and
then add an access point to cover the area not covered by the main
unit.

Note that any wireless router can be configured as an access point, so
don't be fooled into buying an expensive piece of equipment called
"access point" if you already have a spare wireless router.

 

[Paul in Houston TX]

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium on my desktop computer and have had
a household wi-fi router setup for some time. A few weeks ago our
power line took a lightning strike and the surge from this knocked my
wi-fi system out. I have tried two replacements but can not get the
connectivity I had with the old Netgear setup. My wife's kitchen
computer, running Windows XP, will not hold a connection more than a
few minutes. This computer is downstairs and around the corner of our
L shaped house.

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

You can't beat the N-Tron 702 series or Digi Transport
WR 44 or WR 41 series. The company I work for has about
100 of those scattered about the USA.
We have not had the wifi units go bad but there
have been several power supply failures.
About 1/3 are using yagi or planar antennas.
The rest are ordinary short whip antennas.
It should not be necessary to need more than 250 mw.

 

[Ken1943]

You can't beat the N-Tron 702 series or Digi Transport
WR 44 or WR 41 series. The company I work for has about
100 of those scattered about the USA.
We have not had the wifi units go bad but there
have been several power supply failures.
About 1/3 are using yagi or planar antennas.
The rest are ordinary short whip antennas.
It should not be necessary to need more than 250 mw.

What home user is going to pay those prices. Get real.


KenW

 

[Antares 531]

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium on my desktop computer and have had
a household wi-fi router setup for some time. A few weeks ago our
power line took a lightning strike and the surge from this knocked my
wi-fi system out. I have tried two replacements but can not get the
connectivity I had with the old Netgear setup. My wife's kitchen
computer, running Windows XP, will not hold a connection more than a
few minutes. This computer is downstairs and around the corner of our
L shaped house.

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

Thanks Paul and s/b for your responses. I'm thinking of buying a
D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit DIR-655 router - 802.11 b/g/n but I am not
sure this is the best choice. I'm not the most educated person you'll
find when it comes to things in this arena. Unless someone has a
better suggestion I'll probably go buy one of these and give it a try.

I don't think there is any way to relocate my wife's computer so I
have to go along with the hope that a more efficient wireless router
would do the trick.

Her computer has a D-Link DWA552 Wireless-N Xtreme N PCI Card and it
works, but it drops the connection with our Netgear N300 Wireless
Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router.

 

[Paul]

Thanks Paul and s/b for your responses. I'm thinking of buying a
D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit DIR-655 router - 802.11 b/g/n but I am not
sure this is the best choice. I'm not the most educated person you'll
find when it comes to things in this arena. Unless someone has a
better suggestion I'll probably go buy one of these and give it a try.

I don't think there is any way to relocate my wife's computer so I
have to go along with the hope that a more efficient wireless router
would do the trick.

Her computer has a D-Link DWA552 Wireless-N Xtreme N PCI Card and it
works, but it drops the connection with our Netgear N300 Wireless
Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router.

One of the DWA552 reviews here says:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127219

"It took a lot of configuring and reinstalling before it started
working properly on Windows 7. Would not recommend purchasing it if
you are impatient.

Install modded atheros drivers rather than the included ones
manually for best results."

Now, Wifi cards can change chipsets in mid-production, so there is
no guarantee it uses an Atheros chipset. But you could check into that.

The product description says DWA-552 Xtreme Desktop Adapter...
IEEE802.11n Draft 2.0 .

And that last blurb, tells you what version of 802.11n it is
compliant with.

*******

Based on skim reading a few more reviews, I'd switch to another Wifi
solution for inside the kitchen computer.

Paul

 

[Char Jackson]

Thanks Paul and s/b for your responses. I'm thinking of buying a
D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit DIR-655 router - 802.11 b/g/n but I am not
sure this is the best choice. I'm not the most educated person you'll
find when it comes to things in this arena. Unless someone has a
better suggestion I'll probably go buy one of these and give it a try.

I don't think there is any way to relocate my wife's computer so I
have to go along with the hope that a more efficient wireless router
would do the trick.

Her computer has a D-Link DWA552 Wireless-N Xtreme N PCI Card and it
works, but it drops the connection with our Netgear N300 Wireless
Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router.

Umm, what do you have against adding an access point? Why does a
single unit have to cover the entire house?

 

[Wolf K]

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium on my desktop computer and have had
a household wi-fi router setup for some time. A few weeks ago our
power line took a lightning strike and the surge from this knocked my
wi-fi system out.

I have a high-wattage surge-protected UPS.

I have tried two replacements but can not get the
connectivity I had with the old Netgear setup. My wife's kitchen
computer, running Windows XP, will not hold a connection more than a
few minutes. This computer is downstairs and around the corner of our
L shaped house.

Sounds like a driver problem. Make sure the XP machine has the correct
driver for the router. You may also need a new- wi-fi card or USB
antenna dongle.

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

I've used only plain-vanilla D-Link, and have had no problems, even
though an air-return duct and assorted other heating ducts run near the
router.

The for-dummies book I read some years ago emphasised that the router
should be located as centrally as possible. In your case, that would be
the corner of the L, I think.

HTH

 

[Wolf K]

]

Thanks Paul and s/b for your responses. I'm thinking of buying a
D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit DIR-655 router - 802.11 b/g/n but I am not
sure this is the best choice. I'm not the most educated person you'll
find when it comes to things in this arena. Unless someone has a
better suggestion I'll probably go buy one of these and give it a try.

I don't think there is any way to relocate my wife's computer so I
have to go along with the hope that a more efficient wireless router
would do the trick.

Relocate the router.

Umm, what do you have against adding an access point? Why does a
single unit have to cover the entire house?

I'd use a D-Link router with a D-link card.

 

[Zaidy036]

On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 13:53:58 -0500, Antares 531

Thanks Paul and s/b for your responses. I'm thinking of buying a
D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit DIR-655 router - 802.11 b/g/n but I am not
sure this is the best choice. I'm not the most educated person you'll
find when it comes to things in this arena. Unless someone has a
better suggestion I'll probably go buy one of these and give it a try.

<snip>
You can always place a "Bear Can Booster" on one of its 3 antennas and
then aim the signal.

http://www.itworld.com/mobile-wireless/201675/boost-your-wifi-signal-parabolic-antenna-made-beer-can

It really helps.

 

[Ken1943]

One of the DWA552 reviews here says:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127219

"It took a lot of configuring and reinstalling before it started
working properly on Windows 7. Would not recommend purchasing it if
you are impatient.

Install modded atheros drivers rather than the included ones
manually for best results."

Now, Wifi cards can change chipsets in mid-production, so there is
no guarantee it uses an Atheros chipset. But you could check into that.

The product description says DWA-552 Xtreme Desktop Adapter...
IEEE802.11n Draft 2.0 .

And that last blurb, tells you what version of 802.11n it is
compliant with.

*******

Based on skim reading a few more reviews, I'd switch to another Wifi
solution for inside the kitchen computer.

Paul

The wifi adapter could have been damaged in some way, so that may be a
good choice. I have had a router from almost every manufacture, including
a Microsoft one. They all died (lan ports) in two years except for a
Zyxel X-550. 4 years + before it quit and my Daughter is using the second
one, on wireless, I bought ($35) at the time almost 8 years ago. Just
replaced a D-Link at 2 years and now on a Netgear.

When the Netgear one dies, I just may try Zyxel again if I can find one.
The X-550 is too old and not made anymore.

Either I am unlucky or they all stink.

I don't use wireless for any important computers, just a net book on my
coffee table.


KenW

 

[Paul]

<snip>
You can always place a "Bear Can Booster" on one of its 3 antennas and
then aim the signal.

http://www.itworld.com/mobile-wireless/201675/boost-your-wifi-signal-parabolic-antenna-made-beer-can


It really helps.

One reviewer claimed, for the DWA552 Wifi PCI card, that just changing the
three rubber duck antenna to another similar antenna was good enough. As if
the original antennas weren't matched or something. But it terms of
"placing your bets", that idea is only worthwhile, if you already have
antennas with the right connector on the end, available for test. I wouldn't
waste more money buying a set of antennas to test. For the same money,
you could pick up a USB b/g Wifi and use that instead. Just as proof
the router can reach everywhere in the house.

Paul

 

[Ken1943]

Be careful if you get another router that it does have external antennas.
Many come with internal antennas and no other option.


KenW

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per Antares 531:

What is the best wi-fi router choice in terms of signal strength and
stability?

This from somebody who is not the brightest bulb on the tree -
and likes his routers to all look the same:

From the routers that greater minds than mine suggest, I would
pick one that will run the alternative router OS called "Tomato".

Then, when/if you decide to get another WiFi router to use as a
WAP or the new one bites the big one... you don't have that
particular learning curve to climb again.

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per Antares 531:

I don't think there is any way to relocate my wife's computer

Keep in mind the option of setting up additional access points in
the house. I've got one in the rec room/LAN closet (the router)
and another in the kitchen (a D-Link DIR-655 with DHCP turned off
so it functions as a Wireless Access Point).

Web pages load noticeably faster when I connect to the closest
WAP.

 

[Char Jackson]

Per Antares 531:

This from somebody who is not the brightest bulb on the tree -
and likes his routers to all look the same:

From the routers that greater minds than mine suggest, I would
pick one that will run the alternative router OS called "Tomato".

Then, when/if you decide to get another WiFi router to use as a
WAP or the new one bites the big one... you don't have that
particular learning curve to climb again.

I love the Tomato firmware and ran it for quite a few years.

I love dd-wrt even better.

When I buy a wireless router for my own house or on behalf of a
client, I always install 3rd party firmware before placing the unit
into service.

 

[Char Jackson]

Sounds like a driver problem. Make sure the XP machine has the correct
driver for the router.

There's no such thing as a router driver.

 

[Gene E. Bloch]

There's no such thing as a router driver.

There is for the one below; the driver in this case is an electric
motor.

http://tinyurl.com/8t46ja5

(Couldn't resist.)