USB 3.0 Q's

G

Gene E. Bloch

I've even had motherboards refuse to boot and other weird things when a
simple hub was installed into a bog-standard USB2.0 port. What it turned
out to be was that the USB hub was a powered hub, and once we removed
the external power, it worked fine. For some reason the power was
feeding back towards the motherboard's USB port, creating all kinds of
havoc. I try to avoid powered USB hubs these days, and avoid the hubs in
general. But USB has always been flaky.

Yousuf Khan
Especially hubs, IMO.

Many accessories' instructions recommend plugging directly into a USB
port without using a hub (powered or not), and also, I've personally had
devices that work only if that advice is followed.

This thread does have me wondering if USB *hubs* are the problem, or if
USB hub *makers* are the problem :)
 
P

Paul

Gene said:
Especially hubs, IMO.

Many accessories' instructions recommend plugging directly into a USB
port without using a hub (powered or not), and also, I've personally had
devices that work only if that advice is followed.

This thread does have me wondering if USB *hubs* are the problem, or if
USB hub *makers* are the problem :)
Hub traversal is a problem at BIOS level.
The older BIOS, not all of them can "see past" the motherboard
connector, when supporting USB boot. The design is not an
attempt at a complete USB subsystem as such. It's a subset of
functionality.

The OS, should be much better at it.

If the OS can use the hub, then you would suspect
the hub is "compliant".

Paul
 
R

Robin Bignall

Especially hubs, IMO.

Many accessories' instructions recommend plugging directly into a USB
port without using a hub (powered or not), and also, I've personally had
devices that work only if that advice is followed.

This thread does have me wondering if USB *hubs* are the problem, or if
USB hub *makers* are the problem :)
I've got a powered 6-port USB2 hub from D-Link that seems to cause no
problems with power feedback. If you want to charge a phone using it
you have to disconnect the USB connection from the PC.
 
Y

Yousuf Khan

I've got a powered 6-port USB2 hub from D-Link that seems to cause no
problems with power feedback. If you want to charge a phone using it
you have to disconnect the USB connection from the PC.
How hard would it be to make sure that a powered USB hub doesn't feed
power back to the PC? I don't know, as I don't know how the design
works, so I'm honestly asking this as a question.

Yousuf Khan
 
P

Paul

Yousuf said:
How hard would it be to make sure that a powered USB hub doesn't feed
power back to the PC? I don't know, as I don't know how the design
works, so I'm honestly asking this as a question.

Yousuf Khan
One of the companies that makes USB hub chips, provided a reference
schematic for how to build a hub.

You use a *relay*, to open the path. K1, lower left.

http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20080906233617/http://www.smsc.com/main/tools/usb/usb20h04evb.pdf

When the 5V adapter is plugged into the hub, that energizes
the relay, and breaks the DC path back to the USB host cable.

When the 5V adapter is unplugged, the relay closes, and the
USB host cable is used as a source of +5V.

This method is preferred, from the perspective that usage of
diode steering, even with Schottky diodes, would involve too
much of a voltage drop component, for the voltage drop budget.
The voltage drop budget, was only ever intended to cover
drop due to resistance in the cable. Even a Schottky, when
you pump enough current through it (500mA), the Vfb is
going to be significant.

*******

Firewire solves this problem, by placing an *unregulated* voltage
on the cable. Each device drawing power, has its own regulator ($$$).
Any device can source power, and such devices use a diode to prevent
backflow. It's the fact the bus power is unregulated, that leaves
headroom for backflow solutions. In the example, source#1 could
contribute +12V (typical of a PC). Source#2, could have a +18V
source. With the diodes, the Source#1 diode is reverse biased, and
no current flows into Source#1 from Source#2. The +18V is safely
sent to the peripheral. Since the peripheral can handle any DC voltage
up to the Firewire max, it doesn't care if it sees +12V (when Source#2
is unplugged), or see +18V (when Source#2 happens to be plugged in).
The diodes "pick the winner", and the winner provides the current.
The losers get no backfeed into themselves. USB has no backfeed prevention,
because diodes are a poor solution when the voltages are already regulated
at source.

+12V +18V
Source#1 Source#2 "IEEE1394 cables carry
| | a voltage of +8V to +40V"
--- ---
\ / \ /
===== =====
| |
+-----------+--------- peripheral --- regulator ---- load
|
GND

Note that, for a Firewire 3.5" hard drive enclosure, a buck-boost
switcher would be needed, to make +12V from such a wide range of
input voltages. Which means the power circuit looks pretty ugly.
And having to deal with +40V, probably does not help matters.
That's quite a wide range to have to support.

On USB, the bus power is already regulated, and any degradation
of the regulation means the available device power could go
out of spec (either too low or too high). For example, if you
boosted the source power, you'd think "problem solved". Until
someone used a "zero length cable", there was no drop at all,
and the full voltage appeared across the device. It's pretty
hard to "cheat" and keep all devices happy.

I'm not sure what percentage of USB hubs use no protection,
or throw in a diode solution anyway, or use the SMSC relay example
as their solution. But to me, the SMSC solution is the clear
winner, because I know right away, there won't be an issue with
backfeed.

Could you use a MOSFET to cut the power ? Perhaps. But MOSFETs
need a decent voltage on the gate, to make them work as perfect
switches. You would not want the MOSFET contributing too much
Rds to the power path, when switched on. It would be just
as bad as the diodes, if it did that.

Paul
 
W

Wildman

How hard would it be to make sure that a powered USB hub doesn't feed
power back to the PC? I don't know, as I don't know how the design
works, so I'm honestly asking this as a question.

Yousuf Khan
All it would take is a single barrier diode in the power
line. Cathode pointed to the hub, anode pointed to the
USB port. This arrangement will allow power to flow from
the computer to the hub and at the same time will block
the power from feeding back from the (powered) hub to the
computer.
 
P

Paul

Wildman said:
All it would take is a single barrier diode in the power
line. Cathode pointed to the hub, anode pointed to the
USB port. This arrangement will allow power to flow from
the computer to the hub and at the same time will block
the power from feeding back from the (powered) hub to the
computer.
But how does that affect the voltage drop budget ?

I haven't spent the time reading the 500 page USB20 spec,
to see whether it can be done that way. I would not expect
a lot of room in the voltage drop budget, for the addition
of diodes.

This is the Schottky I used for a bicycle light. It has
a 0.36V drop at 500mA. That's a fair amount of drop, for
a voltage drop budget.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1696912.pdf

USB_20.pdf has a drop budget on page 203.

And this PDF, has a simplified version on page 42.

http://mindshare.com/files/ebooks/Universal Serial Bus System Architecture.pdf

Copied here, for comparison:

http://imageshack.us/a/img59/8972/voltagedropbudget.gif

Now, if I stick my 0.36V Schottky in the second image,
it eats up all the voltage drop budget, with nothing
left for cables or connectors. The 4.75V starting value,
assumes worst case regulation at the power supply in the
computer.

Paul
 
W

Wildman

But how does that affect the voltage drop budget ?

I haven't spent the time reading the 500 page USB20 spec,
to see whether it can be done that way. I would not expect
a lot of room in the voltage drop budget, for the addition
of diodes.

This is the Schottky I used for a bicycle light. It has
a 0.36V drop at 500mA. That's a fair amount of drop, for
a voltage drop budget.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1696912.pdf

USB_20.pdf has a drop budget on page 203.

And this PDF, has a simplified version on page 42.

http://mindshare.com/files/ebooks/Universal Serial Bus System Architecture.pdf

Copied here, for comparison:

http://imageshack.us/a/img59/8972/voltagedropbudget.gif

Now, if I stick my 0.36V Schottky in the second image,
it eats up all the voltage drop budget, with nothing
left for cables or connectors. The 4.75V starting value,
assumes worst case regulation at the power supply in the
computer.

Paul
If a barrier diode was chosen that had a lower voltage drop
then I believe it would/should work. There are diodes that
have a drop as low as .15 volt. Units in the .18 to .20
volt range are very common.

BTW my background is in consumer electronics, so I'm no
expert when it comes to computer science. I saw the
question as a simple DC circuit problem, i.e., how to
power something from either one of two sources without
interference. Anyway, it's very possible I'm not seeing
the big picture.

On the bright side, because of our brief discussion, I
have learned a few things about the USB specification
and hubs. Who says you can't teach an old dog new
tricks? :)
 

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