Lightscribe

W

W. eWatson

I just discovered lightscribe. I see there are 3 packages for it. Do any
of them allow me to put several lines of type on them? For example,
suppose I want to put something like this on it.

April
May
June

May want to have 6 or 7 such lines. Can one control the type size?
 
N

Nil

I just discovered lightscribe. I see there are 3 packages for it.
Do any of them allow me to put several lines of type on them? For
example, suppose I want to put something like this on it.
What do you mean "packages"? As far as I know, there is no Lightscribe
capability included with Windows. You will therefore need to contact
the company that makes this unspecified "package."
 
P

pjp

I just discovered lightscribe. I see there are 3 packages for it. Do any
of them allow me to put several lines of type on them? For example,
suppose I want to put something like this on it.

April
May
June

May want to have 6 or 7 such lines. Can one control the type size?
Lightscribe is simply the ability to have an image "burned" onto the
back/label side of the disk. You need software to do it, Windows doesn't
include anything to help use it. In fact Windows requires a driver for
the ability to even be used.

Once the driver is installed, the applet to control a few things also
gives a couple of links where you can download a couple of very
simplistic programs will allow you to actually print the label part. I'm
unsure of their capabilities.

There are commercial packages available. I believe even Nero's Cover
Designer also prints Lightscribe. What I use is SureThing Label Maker
and there is at least one other good package who's name escapes me right
now. They allow you to control font size & placement etc. etc.

Note - the label is b&w (or color of backing)in sense there's only two
"colors"
 
S

SC Tom

W. eWatson said:
I just discovered lightscribe. I see there are 3 packages for it. Do any
of them allow me to put several lines of type on them? For example,
suppose I want to put something like this on it.

April
May
June

May want to have 6 or 7 such lines. Can one control the type size?
First you need to DL and install the Lightscribe System Software
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadsection/windows/index.aspx?id=810>

Then, DL and install the Lightscribe Template Labeler
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadSection/windows/index.aspx?id=1524>

There are a number of templates included with the software, and you can DL
additional templates
<http://www.lightscribe.com/ideas/index.aspx?id=2564>

I've used this software, and it's pretty intuitive and easy to use. Font
sizes and lines are adjustable to a certain extent on a lot of the
templates, or you can create your own labels with the Lightscribe Simple
Labeler (which was not quite as simple as the template software)
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadSection/windows/index.aspx?id=811>
 
P

Paul

SC said:
First you need to DL and install the Lightscribe System Software
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadsection/windows/index.aspx?id=810>

Then, DL and install the Lightscribe Template Labeler
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadSection/windows/index.aspx?id=1524>

There are a number of templates included with the software, and you can
DL additional templates
<http://www.lightscribe.com/ideas/index.aspx?id=2564>

I've used this software, and it's pretty intuitive and easy to use. Font
sizes and lines are adjustable to a certain extent on a lot of the
templates, or you can create your own labels with the Lightscribe Simple
Labeler (which was not quite as simple as the template software)
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadSection/windows/index.aspx?id=811>
I await W's feedback, when it takes a long time to get a high
contrast label.

Maybe it's improved, since the last time I researched it. I have
a Lightscribe drive here, but have never had Lightscribe
media, as the description of the burn time to do a good label,
was too long. If it takes longer to burn the label, than to
burn the data, that takes the fun out of it.

The burn time can be extended, to enhance the contrast ratio.
In the past, people did multi-pass burns, to get a label
that stands out well. A single pass might not be enough.

The burn time might be reduced, with clever label design such
that all the text was concentrated into a smaller set of
concentric circles of pixels. That might help. Rather than
drawing huge pictures of Sparkle Ponies on the label, to
make them "pretty" :)

Paul
 
P

pjp

I await W's feedback, when it takes a long time to get a high
contrast label.

Maybe it's improved, since the last time I researched it. I have
a Lightscribe drive here, but have never had Lightscribe
media, as the description of the burn time to do a good label,
was too long. If it takes longer to burn the label, than to
burn the data, that takes the fun out of it.

The burn time can be extended, to enhance the contrast ratio.
In the past, people did multi-pass burns, to get a label
that stands out well. A single pass might not be enough.

The burn time might be reduced, with clever label design such
that all the text was concentrated into a smaller set of
concentric circles of pixels. That might help. Rather than
drawing huge pictures of Sparkle Ponies on the label, to
make them "pretty" :)
I kinda "plan ahead" for the disks I use Lightscribe on. That means I
can set it up, push the button and walk away for the approx. 20 min. it
takes to burn the label. I burn the "data" on the disk usually later at
my convenience (or it's been put on previously if known beforehand what
it'll be). Hence I don't find the time objectionable.

Tell the truth though, all I've ever used it for is a personal music cd
of my own playing. Wanted to make it fancier if/when I gave a copy to
friends etc. :)
 
M

meagain

W. eWatson said:
I just discovered lightscribe. I see there are 3 packages for it. Do any of them
allow me to put several lines of type on them? For example, suppose I want to put
something like this on it.

April
May
June

May want to have 6 or 7 such lines. Can one control the type size?
The free 'package' let you write in a circle: April, May, June...

The pay 'packages' let you print photo/outline and as much text as
you can squeeze in - but it takes a lot of time.
 
S

SC Tom

meagain said:
The free 'package' let you write in a circle: April, May, June...

The pay 'packages' let you print photo/outline and as much text as
you can squeeze in - but it takes a lot of time.
The Template packages will let you write straight lines, but you're
restricted to certain sized spaces to write in. The templates are also free.
 
R

Rene Lamontagne

The free 'package' let you write in a circle: April, May, June...

The pay 'packages' let you print photo/outline and as much text as
you can squeeze in - but it takes a lot of time.
I have used it primarily to do Linux Live Cds , Knoppix , Mint and a few
others Such as Programs which I buy online , Acronis true image, Tax
programs, etc.
It is still too slow, 20 to 25 minutes and I just don't like the
monochrome results, If they where in full color I might be more
enthusiastic.

Rene
 
S

SC Tom

pjp said:
I kinda "plan ahead" for the disks I use Lightscribe on. That means I
can set it up, push the button and walk away for the approx. 20 min. it
takes to burn the label. I burn the "data" on the disk usually later at
my convenience (or it's been put on previously if known beforehand what
it'll be). Hence I don't find the time objectionable.

Tell the truth though, all I've ever used it for is a personal music cd
of my own playing. Wanted to make it fancier if/when I gave a copy to
friends etc. :)
I usually write the data first, then test the disk before using the time to
write the label.

To Paul, I usually use the highest contrast for the few that I do on
widely-spaced occasions, and it comes out dark enough. I find that they
usually take 20-25 minutes, depending on the template I use (the more
detail, the longer the write time, I guess, although I don't see why that
would be true since it's spinning and burning at a constant velocity). I
thought at one time they were developing three- or four-color capability on
a single disk, but I guess that never panned out. I've seen the different
colored disks, but I still have a number of the gold ones left, so I'll
probably use them up before buying any newer ones.
 
A

AlDrake

I have used it primarily to do Linux Live Cds , Knoppix , Mint and a few
others Such as Programs which I buy online , Acronis true image, Tax
programs, etc.
It is still too slow, 20 to 25 minutes and I just don't like the
monochrome results, If they where in full color I might be more
enthusiastic.

Rene
It's still one step above using the marking pen don't you think? If I am
backing up an existing DVD I scan the label and scribe it to the copy.
Works for me.
 
V

VanguardLH

Paul said:
I await W's feedback, when it takes a long time to get a high
contrast label.

Maybe it's improved, since the last time I researched it. I have
a Lightscribe drive here, but have never had Lightscribe
media, as the description of the burn time to do a good label,
was too long. If it takes longer to burn the label, than to
burn the data, that takes the fun out of it.

The burn time can be extended, to enhance the contrast ratio.
In the past, people did multi-pass burns, to get a label
that stands out well. A single pass might not be enough.

The burn time might be reduced, with clever label design such
that all the text was concentrated into a smaller set of
concentric circles of pixels. That might help. Rather than
drawing huge pictures of Sparkle Ponies on the label, to
make them "pretty" :)

Paul
Lightscribed labels (burned onto the cover side of a LS disc) will fade
over time. They start out somewhat dim, dim over time, and fade into
non-legibility. Some folks will put forth a major effort in designing
graphics for their labels only to have them mottle and fade away. See
some example images at:

http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/509687

When I first got a LS-capable optical drive, sure, I started playing
with it and even bought the more expensive LS media. I was disappointed
with the low contrast on the initial print and a buddy of mine showed
what happens if the discs are exposed to light, especially sunlight
(i.e., UV light). Unless you get special printers for optical discs
that use expensive long-term permanent inks, ink printing on the disc
also fades. I went back to my stick-on labels printed on an inkjet or
laser. At worst, the glue might fade and the label drop off but tis
easy 'nuff to stick it back on. Some stick-on labels are so permanent
that any attempt to remove them results in peeling up the shiny coating
on that same side where is the data.

While some users put the LS discs inside a zippered case thinking
they'll be protected from light, I've seen those LS discs get faded
after 1-1/2 years -- and the fading matches the rounded U-shaped slot in
the cover plastic (i.e., where the clear plastic wasn't over the disc is
where the disc is most faded). You also have to be careful what
material is used in whatever storage you use.

http://www.lightscribe.com/support/kb/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=97
http://www.lightscribe.com/support/kb/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=96

I believe the claim is that fading does not occur for 2 years when the
LS-labelled disc is exposed only to indoor light (which means no full
spectrum lighting). You want to hide these discs from sunlight. Heat
affects fade rate so don't leave the LS discs inside an optical drive
where temperatures are elevated. Apparently even humidity affects fade
rate. Those who are sloppy in handling optical media will find the oil
from their fingerprints also fades the LS image. With all the
precautions needed to preserve an otherwise crappy image, there didn't
seem much point in wasting the time to create LS images, buy the more
pricey discs, and spend the time burning the image onto the LS discs.

All you can do is slow the fading process. It will still fade. LS
doesn't produce permanent labels.
 
S

SC Tom

VanguardLH said:
Lightscribed labels (burned onto the cover side of a LS disc) will fade
over time. They start out somewhat dim, dim over time, and fade into
non-legibility. Some folks will put forth a major effort in designing
graphics for their labels only to have them mottle and fade away. See
some example images at:

http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/509687

When I first got a LS-capable optical drive, sure, I started playing
with it and even bought the more expensive LS media. I was disappointed
with the low contrast on the initial print and a buddy of mine showed
what happens if the discs are exposed to light, especially sunlight
(i.e., UV light). Unless you get special printers for optical discs
that use expensive long-term permanent inks, ink printing on the disc
also fades. I went back to my stick-on labels printed on an inkjet or
laser. At worst, the glue might fade and the label drop off but tis
easy 'nuff to stick it back on. Some stick-on labels are so permanent
that any attempt to remove them results in peeling up the shiny coating
on that same side where is the data.

While some users put the LS discs inside a zippered case thinking
they'll be protected from light, I've seen those LS discs get faded
after 1-1/2 years -- and the fading matches the rounded U-shaped slot in
the cover plastic (i.e., where the clear plastic wasn't over the disc is
where the disc is most faded). You also have to be careful what
material is used in whatever storage you use.

http://www.lightscribe.com/support/kb/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=97
http://www.lightscribe.com/support/kb/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=96

I believe the claim is that fading does not occur for 2 years when the
LS-labelled disc is exposed only to indoor light (which means no full
spectrum lighting). You want to hide these discs from sunlight. Heat
affects fade rate so don't leave the LS discs inside an optical drive
where temperatures are elevated. Apparently even humidity affects fade
rate. Those who are sloppy in handling optical media will find the oil
from their fingerprints also fades the LS image. With all the
precautions needed to preserve an otherwise crappy image, there didn't
seem much point in wasting the time to create LS images, buy the more
pricey discs, and spend the time burning the image onto the LS discs.

All you can do is slow the fading process. It will still fade. LS
doesn't produce permanent labels.
I hadn't thought about them fading, or even noticed it, until I read this
post. I have a boot CD with Acronis True Image 2010 on it, and a newer boot
CD with ATI 2013 (newer hardware doesn't like 2010 much), and I noticed the
3 year old 2010 disc is noticeably lighter than the newer one. They are both
stored in a snap box that lets no light in, slipped into plastic (probably
poly, not PVC) sleeves with "felt" on the data side. The fading appears to
be uniform, but then, the sleeves are full-coverage, not slotted like the
ones in the first article.

The older one hasn't faded too much <http://tinypic.com/m/ftoa6d/3>, and I'm
not even sure if they were both done on the same writer, but it definitely
is noticeable.

I have a box full of the inkjet labels, but not sure if I still have the
applicator device. I haven't used them in so long, they may be dried out by
now, and won't even stick. I had two or three different styles of labels,
and wasted a lot of ink on creating them, but I'd have to look to see if I
still have any around. Since all of my music gets saved to laptop, PC and
iPod, I can't remember the last time I pulled down my zipper case full of
CDs.
 
V

VanguardLH

SC Tom said:
I hadn't thought about them fading, or even noticed it, until I read this
post. I have a boot CD with Acronis True Image 2010 on it, and a newer boot
CD with ATI 2013 (newer hardware doesn't like 2010 much), and I noticed the
3 year old 2010 disc is noticeably lighter than the newer one. They are both
stored in a snap box that lets no light in, slipped into plastic (probably
poly, not PVC) sleeves with "felt" on the data side. The fading appears to
be uniform, but then, the sleeves are full-coverage, not slotted like the
ones in the first article.

The older one hasn't faded too much <http://tinypic.com/m/ftoa6d/3>, and I'm
not even sure if they were both done on the same writer, but it definitely
is noticeable.

I have a box full of the inkjet labels, but not sure if I still have the
applicator device. I haven't used them in so long, they may be dried out by
now, and won't even stick. I had two or three different styles of labels,
and wasted a lot of ink on creating them, but I'd have to look to see if I
still have any around. Since all of my music gets saved to laptop, PC and
iPod, I can't remember the last time I pulled down my zipper case full of
CDs.
If you treat them with super care then the label is supposed to last for
2 years. If you're getting longer than that, consider yourself lucky.
Get max life from a LS label requires some very good protection: no sun,
no broad spectrum indoor light, cool temperature, and keep away from
many chemicals many of which effuse from various plastics.

I don't consider 2, 3, or 5 years to be permanent for a label. I use
CDs and DVDs for downloaded software some versions I still want that are
no longer available as well as commercialware that was downloaded, like
from Digital River, with the order or bill of sale and the product key
needed to use the product. The Sharpie marker labels have lasted better
than the LS labels.

Verbatim says:

Will LightScribe media labels fade or scratch?
LightScribe CD-R and LightScribe DVD labels are inherently durable.
The disc¢s image-ready coating is an integral part of its make-up,
providing long-lasting, scratch resistant labels.

HP says:

Will the LightScribe image fade or darken over time or with exposure
to light?
LightScribe discs are optimized to ensure that the label surface
lasts. Some minor fading may occur over time.

So they skirt the question. They don't say No. They don't say Yes.
They don't say how long is "long-lasting" or how intensive is "minor".
They and other LS disc makers know the technology would not have taken
off if users knew up front that the LS labelling fades and the higher
cost of LS media. The real statistics has been proven by users that
have LS media for over 2 years. Parts of the label are so faded that
they are unintelligible while some areas have just disappeared. The LS
drive and disc makers are still pretending this doesn't happen.
 
N

Nil

I went back
to my stick-on labels printed on an inkjet or laser. At worst,
the glue might fade and the label drop off but tis easy 'nuff to
stick it back on. Some stick-on labels are so permanent that any
attempt to remove them results in peeling up the shiny coating on
that same side where is the data.
I do not recommend stick-on labels. I used to use the CD Stomper
system, and almost ever disk I labeled that way has gone bad. I don't
know if the glue attacked the disk, or if it throws it off-balance, or
what, but most of the (audio CD) disks now suffer from "helicopter
noise syndrome" (don't know if there's a technical term for that, but
most people who have burned audio disks know what I mean.) I've been
able to recover some of those by carefully soaking the label off and
cleaning off the glue residue, but many were gone for good.

I never labeled many data disks that way, so I don't know if they
suffered as much. I did read one such disc a week ago and it was OK.

As far as Lightscribe - it takes too long, the result isn't very
attractive, and I figure it puts too much wear and tear on the drive.
It was a novelty at first, but I don't bother with it any more. Not
many new drives seem to have the feature, so I guess it's going the way
of the dodo.
 
G

Gene E. Bloch

Lightscribed labels (burned onto the cover side of a LS disc) will fade
over time. They start out somewhat dim, dim over time, and fade into
non-legibility. Some folks will put forth a major effort in designing
graphics for their labels only to have them mottle and fade away. See
some example images at:

http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/509687

When I first got a LS-capable optical drive, sure, I started playing
with it and even bought the more expensive LS media. I was disappointed
with the low contrast on the initial print and a buddy of mine showed
what happens if the discs are exposed to light, especially sunlight
(i.e., UV light). Unless you get special printers for optical discs
that use expensive long-term permanent inks, ink printing on the disc
also fades. I went back to my stick-on labels printed on an inkjet or
laser. At worst, the glue might fade and the label drop off but tis
easy 'nuff to stick it back on. Some stick-on labels are so permanent
that any attempt to remove them results in peeling up the shiny coating
on that same side where is the data.

While some users put the LS discs inside a zippered case thinking
they'll be protected from light, I've seen those LS discs get faded
after 1-1/2 years -- and the fading matches the rounded U-shaped slot in
the cover plastic (i.e., where the clear plastic wasn't over the disc is
where the disc is most faded). You also have to be careful what
material is used in whatever storage you use.

http://www.lightscribe.com/support/kb/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=97
http://www.lightscribe.com/support/kb/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=96

I believe the claim is that fading does not occur for 2 years when the
LS-labelled disc is exposed only to indoor light (which means no full
spectrum lighting). You want to hide these discs from sunlight. Heat
affects fade rate so don't leave the LS discs inside an optical drive
where temperatures are elevated. Apparently even humidity affects fade
rate. Those who are sloppy in handling optical media will find the oil
from their fingerprints also fades the LS image. With all the
precautions needed to preserve an otherwise crappy image, there didn't
seem much point in wasting the time to create LS images, buy the more
pricey discs, and spend the time burning the image onto the LS discs.

All you can do is slow the fading process. It will still fade. LS
doesn't produce permanent labels.
I have maybe 10 LS disks from around December 2008 to February 2009,
i.e., just about four years old (I didn't look at any of my newer ones).

No sign of fading.

They are all in slimline jewel cases, however.

Unfortunately for experimental purposes, I had a lot more until
recently, but I threw them away, and I don't recall how they looked. For
months, they were in a pile without any kind of cases, because I was
v-e-r-y slow in moving them from the discard pile to the trash can.
 
V

VanguardLH

Nil said:
I do not recommend stick-on labels. I used to use the CD Stomper
system, and almost ever disk I labeled that way has gone bad. I don't
know if the glue attacked the disk, or if it throws it off-balance, or
what, but most of the (audio CD) disks now suffer from "helicopter
noise syndrome"
Off-balance vibration caused by improper placement of the label. Even
commercial producers of labelled discs (using stick-on labels versus
disc ink printers) can sometimes get the labels off kilter on an entire
batch of production. If I got one of those, I didn't go back to the
retail store to exchange it for another one since the retailer probably
got them in a batch.

I haven't used Avery's CD Stomper product so I don't know how they try
to ensure the sticky label is aligned to the disc BEFORE pressing the
label onto the disc and if they press the center of the label (by the
spindle hole) onto the disc before pressing on the outer edge (i.e.,
press on from middle outward). The one currently shown at Avery's site
(cdstomper.com) looks like a flat bed where you have to not only use the
spindle rod to align the label but also make sure the edges of the
spindle hole in the label match up with the embossed circle on the disc.

http://www.cdstomper.com/products/Design_Kits/index.html

I found a Youtube video that shows Avery either had a prior or later
model for the label installer that had it bend. The label went onto the
applicator with sticky side up and was curved. You put the disc atop
the label which would only contact along one radius of the label.
Pressing down had the label apply from that radius outward to eliminate
bubbles. However, I don't see a means of aligning the edge of the
spindle hole in the label with the embossed circle on the disc around
the spindle hole.


The old kit that I have (no brand marked on it) has the label go over a
fat spindle. Instead of trying to make the user align the edge of the
hole in the label to a ridge on a plate on the stamper, the label slid
over a fat spindle. That way, the label wasn't going to slide around at
all while the user was pressing the disc onto the upturned label (sticky
side up). The process was to slide the label over the fat spindle and
press down on a disc when pushed the spring-loaded fat spindle down into
the body of the stamper. The disc was held in alignment during the
downward press by the small spindle (in the hold of the disc) while the
label was held in place by the fat spindle that retracted into the base.
As I recall, I use two hands instead of one. One hand's finger hold
onto the sides of the disc while slightly flexing it upward while the
other hand presses down on the disc. The label gets applied along one
radius of the disc and I unflex the disc to apply the label to the rest
of the disc. That eliminated any bubbling or uneven application of the
label. The stampers I see nowadays has the user trying to keep the
label hole positioned on a ridge rather than fixed in place by a fat
spindle. While mine isn't an Avery model, it looks like Avery used to
make one with the retracting spring-loaded fat spindle to hold the label
while pressing the disc down along the skinny spindle.

You also have to be mindful on the distribution of ink on the label. If
you black out one half of the label, maybe to show white text there, or
half is heavily colored and the other half is white (no ink) with some
black text, the blacked out or heavily colored side will be heavier due
to the addition of lots of ink. Even if you use a profession disc
printer you have to watch the balance of your artwork so it doesn't
unbalance the disc after the image is printed on the disc. It only
takes a small weight misplaced on your wheel to unbalance your car tire.
Same goes for small off-balanced weight on an optical disc.

I've had discs where the spindle hole was very slightly off center.
They were balanced enough not to vibrate the drive motor but adding
label accentuated the off-balance condition. The disc was off balanced
and adding more weight just made it worse (more momentum with more
mass). No choice but to toss those.

Disc printers are probably the best choice for permanent labels. Ink is
pricey, however. Labels are probably the next best as long as you
properly position them and there exists no pre-existing flaws in the
disc. Lots of commercial discs use stick-on labels. Lightscribe is the
lowest grade of label. While it allows you nicer printing than a
Sharpie, the Sharpie markings last longer. So great looking but
non-permanent (fading) versus sloppy Sharpie but more permanent.

Yeah, you might burn a disc and apply a label only to trash it because
it was or became unbalanced but you know that now when you labelled the
disc (you do test them after labelling them, right?). With Lightscribe
labelling, the job works now but the label disappears later while in
storage (so you won't notice the fading until years later when you get
around to using that disc).

I don't remember which brand but I have used some where the glue simply
evaporated and I ended up with a loose label stored with the disc. Twas
easy enough to apply more spray glue in an even pattern to reapply and
the label was still completel legible (no fading). I don't much label
my discs but in the last few years the labels were permanent. Years
later when I decided to discard a disc, there was no way to remove the
label. In fact, if you used an Xacto knife to wedge under the label,
you could remove the label only with it also yanking off the silvery
material on which the data is recorded and you ended up with a clear
disc like those you see at the end of a stack of CDs sold on a spindle.
The glue was stronger on the label than the metallic foil on the disc.
A rigid optical disc turned into a floppy foil disc; see:

http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/A00Y_1_20120420_3398973.jpg

Mine looks more like:

http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/A1D3_129945547503306521fVAVhHjKDG.jpg

except mine also had little tension fingers alongside the outer edge of
the fat spindle that you pressed in to slide the label over them and
made sure the label didn't move around and it stayed DOWN on the base
plate.
As far as Lightscribe - it takes too long, the result isn't very
attractive, and I figure it puts too much wear and tear on the drive.
It was a novelty at first, but I don't bother with it any more. Not
many new drives seem to have the feature, so I guess it's going the way
of the dodo.
The time to etch a LS label was one of several reasons I gave up on that
technology. Obviously the more dense the image (for contrast) or the
more printing (larger image) then the longer to etch it. I resigned
from fancy labels using LS and went to just simple and short text.

Then there was the promise versus reality. The first time I printed an
LS label on an LS disc my reaction was "That's it?" I figured I did
something wrong but repeated trials didn't improve on image quality. I
saw LS-printed discs by other users and was equally unimpressed.

Frankly I haven't heard anyone wanting, using, or looking for
Lightscribe drives or media for quite awhile. The fad passed.
 
V

VanguardLH

Gene E. Bloch said:
I have maybe 10 LS disks from around December 2008 to February 2009,
i.e., just about four years old (I didn't look at any of my newer ones).

No sign of fading.

They are all in slimline jewel cases, however.

Unfortunately for experimental purposes, I had a lot more until
recently, but I threw them away, and I don't recall how they looked. For
months, they were in a pile without any kind of cases, because I was
v-e-r-y slow in moving them from the discard pile to the trash can.
See how well they survive in your cold dark game-playing basement
computer room.

Okay, you didn't describe the environ but I couldn't help but imagine
that image. Note that fading doesn't mean totally gone. It can also
mean when contrast has dimmed for part of the image or text. If dimming
is evenly distributed across the label, you probably won't notice it
because you're reviewing the label years after it was etched. Dimming
is most noticeable when it is uneven or drastic. If the label is "busy"
enough, it can be difficult to notice the fade unless you look for it.
From what I've seen of old LS labelled discs by multiple users of
various brands, you're the exception.
 
W

W. eWatson

First you need to DL and install the Lightscribe System Software
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadsection/windows/index.aspx?id=810>

Then, DL and install the Lightscribe Template Labeler
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadSection/windows/index.aspx?id=1524>

There are a number of templates included with the software, and you can
DL additional templates
<http://www.lightscribe.com/ideas/index.aspx?id=2564>

I've used this software, and it's pretty intuitive and easy to use. Font
sizes and lines are adjustable to a certain extent on a lot of the
templates, or you can create your own labels with the Lightscribe Simple
Labeler (which was not quite as simple as the template software)
<http://www.lightscribe.com/downloadSection/windows/index.aspx?id=811>
DL?
 
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